BHUTAN: Punakha

Punakha

Punakha is one of the 20 dzongkhag (districts) comprising Bhutan.
Punakha Dzong, the administrative and religious center of the district, is the winter home of Bhutan’s Central Monk Body. Since the 1680’s the dzong has also been the site of a continuous vigil over the earthly body of Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, the founder of the country, which lies in a special chamber in the dzong.Punakha dzong was the capital of Bhutan during the time of Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal. The Punakha Dzong is one of the most historic dzongs in the whole country. Built by Zhabdrung Ngwang Namgyal in the 17th century, it is located between the confluence of two rivers: Pho(male) chhu and Mo(female) chhu.

Punakha is bordered by Thimphu, Gasa, and Wangdue Phodrang dzongkhag.
Pungthang Dechen Phodrang in Punakha Dzongkhag was constructed by Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyel in 1637 and is renowned for its historical importance. It was in Punakha, the first hereditary Monarch, King Ugyen Wangchuck was enthroned on 17 December 1907. Punakha served as the winter capital till 1955 and Punakha Dzong continues to be the winter residence of the Central Monk Body.

Punakha Dzongkhag has nine Gewogs namely Chhubu, Dzomo, Goenshari, Guma, Kabjisa, Lingmukha, Shenga Bjime, Talo and Toewang with a total of 2001 households. Accept for Talo and Guma Gewogs, most Gewogs are located along the banks of Pho-chhu and Mo-chhu with elevation ranging from 1200-4800 m above sea level.
Despite favourable climatic condition and very fertile agricultural land, farm productivity is low. Majority of the farm households still lack direct access to motor roads which pose considerable difficulties in transporting farm surplus to market.

The Dzongkhag has three community schools, five primary schools, one lower secondary schools and one middle secondary school with total of over 4000 students. The hospital at Punakha and five Basic Health Units (BHUs) in the Gewogs render public health services for the Gewogs. Almost 60 % of the households have access to piped drinking water supply. Over 30% of the rural households have access to electricity.

Punakha Dzong

BHUTAN: Thimphu "Capital City of Bhutan"

Thimphu is a district of Bhutan. It is also the capital of Bhutan and the largest city in the whole kingdom.

Thimphu Dzongkhag is located in the western part of the country. It shares boundaries with Gasa, Punakha &Wangduephodrang Dzongkhags in the east, Chukha & Dagana in the south, Paro Dzongkhag in the west. In the north, it borders the Tibetan Autonomous Region of China. Thimphu is among the more developed Dzongkhags in the country. It has a relatively good road network, especially in the lower Gewogs. The Gewogs in the northern part of the Dzongkhag, which have rugged and mountainous terrain with extreme cold climate, are connected only by mule track making access and delivery of development services difficult and expensive.

National Council from Capital Thimphu

The construction of the Supreme Court complex in Thimphu

Thimphu and Paro experiences major wild fire

Most of the lower Gewogs in the Dzongkhags have easy access to the national referral hospital, national research centers, central ministries, and agriculture related corporations and the financial institutions. Further, extension services are available in all Gewogs and so are facilities for primary education and health care. 95% of the households are supplied with electricity including solar light for Lingzhi Dungkhag. Thimphu has an area of about 2,067 sq.kms with elevation ranging between 1,300 to over 7,300 meters above the sea level. The Dzongkhag has one Dungkhag and 10 Gewogs. Baap, Chang, Dagala, Genyekha, Kawang, Mewang and Toepisa Gewogs fall directly under the Dzongkhag Administration while the three Gewogs of Lingzhi, Naro and Soe fall under the Lingzhi Dungkhag Administration. Thimphu Dzongkhag has a total of 1559 household. The forest cover area is about 1059.3 sq. kms. (105930 Hectares) The Gewogs at the lower valley in the Dzongkhag are already relatively developed compared to other regions in the country with wide telecommunication and road coverage and good access to local markets. Rice, which is the staple food, is grown extensively by a majority of the people in Gewogs like Baap, Chang, Toepisa, Kawang, Mewang and Genyekha. People also cultivate wheat as a winter crop. The dry land owned by the people is used for orchard plantation and vegetable cultivation for commercial purposes. The other more remote Gewogs in the alpine region, namely Dagala, Soe, Naro and Lingzhi, depend on Yak rearing as the main economic activity. People of Lingzhi Dungkhag also collect and sale wild medicinal and aromatic plants, which is an importation source of income. Thimphu, the capital town, is also located in the Dzongkhag. By the 10th plan, Chang (except for a few villages) and a portion of Kawang Gewogs will come under the jurisdiction of the Thimphu Municipality. Thimphu town occupies most of the areas of Chang Gewog and in future, further expansion of the town area will be within these two Gewogs.

What to see in Thimphu:

National Memorial Chorten: The building of this Chorten was originally the idea of Bhutan’s third king, H.M. Jigme Dorji Wangchuck (“the father of modern Bhuta”), who had wished to erect a monument to world peace and prosperity, but was unable to give shape to his idea in his lifetime due to pressures of state. After His Majesty’s untimely death in 1972, the Royal Family and Cabinet resolved to fulfill his wishes and erect a memorial that would perpetuate his memory and also serve as a monument to peace. The National Memorial Chorten was consecrated on July 28, 1974. The finely executed wall paintings and delicately fashioned statues within the monument provide a deep insight into Buddhist philosophy.

Tashichhodzong: The “fortress of the glorious religion” was initially erected in 1641 and rebuilt by King Jigme Dorji Wangchuck in the 1960s. Tashichhodzong houses some ministries, His Majesty’s secretariat, and the central monk body. It is open to visitors during the Thimphu Tsechu (held in autumn) and while the monk body is resident in its winter quarters at Punakha Dzong.

Semtokha Dzong: This Dzong, built in 1627 by Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, stands on a low ridge 8 km. down the valley from Thimphu. The Institute for Language and Cultural Studies is located here. The most noteworthy artistic feature of this Dzong is the series of over 300 finely worked slate carvings behind the prayer wheels in the courtyard.

National Library: The National Library was established in the late 1960s primarily to conserve the literary treasures which form a significant part of Bhutan’s cultural heritage. It now houses an extensive collection of Buddhist literature mostly in block-printed format, with some works several hundred years old. This collection, known as the Choekey Collection, mainly comprises Buddhist literature written in Choekey, the religious script of Northern Buddhism, but also includes works written in Tibetan and in Dzongkha, Bhutan’s national language. There is also a small Foreign Books Collection, stock of which mainly comprises works written in English, with subject interest on Buddhist studies, Bhutan, the Himalayan region and neighboring countries.

Institute for Zorig Chusum: Commonly known as the Painting School, the Institute offers a six-year course on the 13 traditional arts and crafts of Bhutan. On a visit one can see students learning the various skills taught at the school.

National Institute of Traditional Medicine: In Bhutan, equal emphasis is given to both allopathic and traditional medicines. The rich herbal medicines made up from medicinal plants abundant in the kingdom are prepared and dispensed here. The Institute is also a training school for traditional medicine practitioners. The complex is closed to visitors due to considerations of hygiene, but one can still walk around and view it from the outside.

Folk Heritage and National Textile Museums: These museums, both of which opened in 2001, provide fascinating insights into Bhutanese material culture and way of life.

Handicrafts shops: A wide assortment of colorful, hand woven textiles and other craft products is available for purchase at the government-run Handicrafts Emporium and many smaller crafts shops around the town.

Weekend Market: Most of the Thimphu’s population and many valley dwellers converge on the bustling weekend market, held down by the river. A wide range of foodstuffs and local arts and crafts are sold at the market, which runs from Friday afternoon to Sunday. A visit to the market provides great photo opportunities, as well as the chance to mingle with local people and perhaps buy souvenirs.

Day Hikes:

Tango Gonpa
This monastery was founded by Lama Gyalwa Lhanangpa in the 12th century. The present building was erected in the 15th century by the “Divine Madman”, Lama Drukpa Kuenley. In 1616 Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal visited Tango and meditated in a cave near the monastery. The picturesque three-storied tower and several surrounding buildings were built in the 18th century by the eighth temporal ruler of Bhutan, Druk Rabgye. The hike up the trail to Tango Gonpa takes about an hour.

Cheri Gonpa
This monastery was built by Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal in 1620. A silver Chorten inside the monastery holds the ashes of the Shabdrung’s father. This trek trail starts by crossing a lovely bridge that spans the Thimphu river, then climbs steeply to the monastery. The journey takes about an hour.

Phajoding Monastery
The complex is situated high on the hills overlooking Thimphu valley. It was founded by Phajo Drugom Shigpo who introduced the Drukpa Kagyupa school of Buddhism in Bhutan in the 13th century. Phajoding was in former times one of the richest monasteries in the country. It is a wonderful hike of about 4 hours from Thimphu to the monastery.

Development Potentials.

Physical: - Gewogs located in remote places specially in the temperate and Alpine areas in Lingzhi Dungkhag have potential for Livestock/Diary development, cultivation and sustainable harvest of medicinal and aromatic plants. It also has scope for tourism development. Rest of the Gewogs in lower valleys with warmer climatic conditions have good potential for Agriculture, horticulture other cash crop like potato, vegetables and livestock/diary development. Dzongkhag has fairly good natural forest cover for establishment of wood based industries.

Infrastructure: - The Dzongkhag has relatively stable and extensive road network and telecommunication facilities in lower areas whereas the remote Gewogs in the Alpine regions are connected by regularly maintained mule tracks thus providing access to the people for marketing their produce and transportation of essential consumer goods. There is strong policy support for Agriculture, Horticulture, and Livestock/Diary development, development of Private sector and establishment of employment generation enterprises. Dzongkhag has easy access to National research centers, Central Departments, Ministries, Corporations and financial institutions etc. Further Gewog extension services are available in all Gewogs and so are primary education and health care. Also about 95% of the households in the Dzongkhag are supplied with electricity (Solar light in Lingzhi, Soe and Naro Gewogs).

Human: - There is low influx of in migration supported by National policy that ensures local population is not threatened by outside forces. Increasing number of qualified personnel are joining Dzongkhag Administration. Thus capability building and strengthening the local human resource is greatly enhanced. Local communities have started shouldering greater responsibilities for development programme. Decentralization process has further encouraged people’s participation in decision making, planning and implementing of development programme in the villages/Gewogs.

Economic: - The Dzongkhag is accessible to the local markets, markets in bordering areas (including India and Bangladesh). There is scope for tourism development because of existence of rich cultural heritage, historical sites and rich Bio-diversity. The Dzongkhag has great potential to increase cash crop production, which should be exploited for economic upliftment of rural farmers. The production of livestock, diary products, vegetables, potato, apples, mushroom can greatly enhance the cash incomes of the rural people. There also exists opportunity for the development of Agro & wood based industries, hollow blocks, marble and stone chip industries.

Objectives and Targets
i) To promote decentralization, good governance & people’s participation.
ii) To promote balanced development amongst the Gewogs.
iii) To promote efficient management and coordination services.
iv) To protect and preserve rich cultural heritage.
v) To conserve environment and natural resources.

Strategies
i) Strengthening Dzongkhag Yargye Tshogchung (DYT), Gewog Yargey Tshogchung (GYTs) by providing basic support services like Gup’s office, telephone, furnitures and other office equipments.
ii) Providing efficient management and coordination services within the Dzongkhag, Gewogs and with Central Agencies for effective implementation.
iii) Provide better and prompt services to the people through provision of adequate facilities and manpower.
iv) Developing human resources capacity at the Dzongkhag and Gewogs by providing incountry trainings to the staff as well as DYT & GYT members.
v) Preservation of cultural heritage sites through timely maintenance and renovation of Dzongs, Monastries, Lakhangs and Goenpas of Cultural and Religious Importance.
vi) Undertake measures to raise the level of public sensitivity and commitment to the preservation and promotion of Bhutan’s rich cultural heritage.
vii) Conservation of environment and natural resources base through awareness building and sustainable utilization mechanism.

Thimphu Tashicho Dzong

108 Stupas at Dochula Pass between Thimphu and Punakha

Nightshot of Thimphu

Thimphu Festival

BHUTAN: Wangdue Phodrang

Wangdue Phodrang (previously spelled Wangdi Phodrang) is a dzongkhag (district), of central Bhutan. This is also the name of the dzong (built in 1638) which dominates the district, and the name of the small market town outside the gates of the dzong. The name is said to have been given by the Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal who was searching for the best location for a dzong to prevent incursions from the south. At the chosen spot the Shabdrung encountered a boy named Wangdi playing beside the river and hence named the dzong “Wangdi’s Palace”.

Wangdue Phodrang Dzong
Wangdue Phodrang is bordered by Dagana and Tsirang dzongkhags to the south, Tongsa dzongkhag to the east, Thimphu and Punakha dzongkhag to the west, and Gasa dzongkhag and a small section of border with Tibet to the north.

Wangduephodrang Dzong was founded by Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal in 1638. It is located on top of a high ridge between the Puna Tsang Chu and the Dangchu, offering a spectacular view.

Wangduephodrang is about 4308 square kms with an elevation ranging from 800 to 5800 meters above sea level. The summers are moderately hot with cool winters. The areas in the north remain under snow during the winter and the district receives about 1000 mm of annual rainfall.

Wangdue is the second largest district in Bhutan, comprising of 15 vast and diverse geogs. They are Athang, Bjena , Daga, Dangchu, Gangtey, Gasetshog Gom, Gasetshog Wom, Kazhi, Nahi, Nyisho, Phangyul, Phobjikha, Rubeisa, Sephu & Thedtsho. Food security and rural access is the most obtainable in Thedtsho geog (were the present town and the developing Bajo town are located). They are the least accessible and found lacking in Athang (the most remote geog). Some of the Dzongkhag’s available infrastructures are as follows:

Hotel Dragon Nest

Wangduephodrang has about 65 % of its total land under forest cover, which consists of both broadleaf and conifers. Phobjikha geog is famous as the winter resting place of the black necked cranes where one RSPN office has been established. The Jigme Dorji Wangchuck National Park extends into the northern part of the Dzongkhag and covers almost 4 geogs. The acclaimed monastery, Gangtey Goenpa, is located in Gangtey geog and the well known site of pilgrimage Boed Langdra is located in Kazhi geog.

The higher geogs of Phobjikha, Gangtey, Sephu and Dangchu provide rich pasture for livestock, with approximately 3.5 % of the total area of the Dzongkhag under Tsamdro (pasture). There are about 39,380 heads of livestock with approximately 27,760 cattle heads in the Dzongkhag and 7,847 heads of poultry, thereby earning some income from the sale of livestock products through farmers’ groups involved in production, processing & marketing.

Black Necked Crane in Phobjikha Valley.

Chuzhing (irrigated wetland) dominates the agricultural activity, followed by Kamzhing (dryland), mixed farming and few patches of Tseri (slash & burn) cultivation. Paddy fields are mostly along the Dangchu and Puna Tsang Chu, with double cropping of rice as an important agricultural feature. Potato is an important cahs crop for the geogs of Phobji, Gangtey and Sephu and there is increasing citrus production in the geogs of Daga, Bjena, Phangyul and Rubeisa and ginger production in Daga and Athang geogs as a source of generating income. The lower valley towards the southern belt is best suited for sub-tropical horticulture crops such as oranges, mangoes, pineapples, guavas etc.
There are three paved roads in Wangdue Phodrang dzongkhag. The Lateral Road enters from the west at Dochu La Pass, crosses the Pana Tsang Chhu at Wangdue Phodrang dzong, and continues east to Tongsa. One spur road heads north from Wangdue Phodrang to the dzong at Punakha and slightly beyond. This becomes the footpath to Gasa. A second spur departs the Lateral Road halfway between Wangdue and Tongsa, traveling south a short distance to Phobji monastery and the Gangtey valley where the rare Black-necked Cranes (grus nigricollis) may be found.

Gangtey Gompa / Phobjikha (3,000m/9,845ft)
In the mountains east of Wangduephodrang lies the beautiful Phobjikha valley, on the slopes of which is situated the great monastery of Gangtey, established in the 17th century. The village of Phobjikha lies a few km. down from the monastery, on the valley floor. This quiet, remote valley is the winter home of black necked cranes, which migrate from the arid plains of Tibet in the north, to pass the winter months in a milder climate.

Paro Bhutan: Druk Air (Royal Bhutan Airlines)

Druk Air (Royal Bhutan Airlines)

As required by government regulations all visitors must travel at least one way into Bhutan by Royal Bhutan Airlines, Druk Air. Druk Air operates from Bangkok (BKK), Kolkatta, Delhi (DEL) and Kathmandu (KTM) to Paro. Entry is permitted only by Druk Air into Paro or overland through Phuentsholing accompanied by a guide.

Druk Air Cancellation Policy

Druk Air tickets are valid for one year from the date of issue. Passengers who reschedule their flights will be subject to a $30 re booking fee. Druk Air tickets are subject to the following cancellation and refund rules.

• 85% refund for tickets canceled more than 45 days prior to arrival date in Bhutan
• 35% refund for tickets canceled between 30 and 45 days prior to arrival date
• No refund for tickets canceled within 30 days of arrival date in Bhutan
• An administration fee of $25 per ticket will be applicable for all canceled tickets
• Passengers who fail to show up for a flight will not be eligible for a refund
• Lost tickets are nonrefundable

Druk Air Royal Bhutan Airlines Druk Air Fare 2009

Druk Air online reservation rules to book and buy tickets within 24 hours
Flight Schedules

• October 2008 to March 2009
• March 2009 to October 2009

Druk Air Addresses:

BANGLADESH – Dhaka
Druk Air Corporation Ltd
Mams Travels & Tours Ltd
33, Gulshan Ave, Road-45
Gulshan-2, Dhaka-1212
Tel: +880-2-9862243/9892862/9890802
Fax: +880-2-8828439

BHUTAN – Paro
Druk Air Corporation Ltd
Nemizampa, Paro
Tel: +975-8-271856 to 58/271860
Fax: +975-8-271861
SITA: QJCRPKB

BHUTAN – Thimphu
Druk Air Corporation Ltd
P.O. Box 209, Thimphu
Tel: +975-2-322215/323420/322825/321754
Fax: +975-2-322775
SITA: QJCRRRKB

INDIA – New Delhi
Druk Air Corporation Ltd
City Office: Ansal Bhawan Building
G Floor-3, 16 KG Marg
Connaught Place, New Delhi - 110001
Tel: +91-11-23357703/23357704
Fax: +91-11-23357768
Airport Tel: +91-11-25653207/25653147
SITA: DELKKKB, DELCOKB

INDIA – Kolkata
Druk Air Corporation Ltd
51, Tivoli Court
1A Ballygunge Circular Road
Kolkata
Tel: +91-33-22402419/22805376
Fax: +91-33-22470050
Airport Tel: +91-33-25119976
SITA: CCURRKB

MYANMAR – Yangon
Druk Air Corporation Ltd
C/o Mrs Soe Soewin
Thuriya Tours & Travels, Yangon
Tel: +95-1-524904
Fax: +95-1-525948
Mobile: +95-95002776

NEPAL – Kathmandu
Druk Air Corporation Ltd
Malla Treks (P) Ltd
P.O. Box 5227
Leknath Marg, Kathmandu
Tel: +977-1-4410089/4423145
Fax: +977-1- 4423143/4471712

THAILAND – Bangkok
Druk Air Corporation Ltd
Room # 3237, Central Block
International Airport, Bangkok
Tel: +66-2-5351960/5354901
Fax: +66-2-5353661
SITA: BKKKKB

BHUTAN: Paro

Paro is the name of a district (dzongkhag), valley, river and town (population 20,000) in the Kingdom of Bhutan. Its 27°30′N, 89°20′E. It is one of the most historic valleys in Bhutan. Both trade goods and invading Tibetans came over the pass at the head of the valley, giving Paro the closest cultural connection with Tibet of any Bhutanese district. Important cultural sites include:

Taktsang “Tiger’s Nest” : “Tiger’s Nest” monastery is spectacularly located on the side of a cliff 900m above the valley floor. It is said that in the 8th century Guru Rinpoche flew on the back of a tigress from eastern Bhutan to this place and meditated in a cave here for 3 months. There have been shrines at this sacred place for many centuries. The principal Lhakhang of the present monastic complex dates from 1692. Taktsang is a place of pilgrimage which Bhutanese try to visit at least once in a lifetime. An excursion to Taktsang involves a steep climb up through pine forest and takes about five hours round trip.

Drukgyel Dzong, at the upper end of the valley, built to protect against invading Tibetans, but in ruins since a fire in the 1950s.
Paro Town, the single market town in the dzonghag which is booming (by Bhutanese standards) due to an influx of tourist dollars.

Rinpung Dzong, also known as Paro Dzong, the massive fortress/monastery which is also the administrative center of the dzonkhag. Scenes from the movie Little Buddha were filmed in and around this dzong.

The National Museum of Bhutan, where visitors can learn about the culture of Bhutan.

Kyichu Lhakhang, which along with Jambay Lhakhang in central Bhutan is the oldest temple in Bhutan, dating to the 7th century Paro contains the only active international airport in Bhutan, the Paro Airport, a beautiful small green-roofed facility in a valley, served only by Druk Air (Bhutan’s National Airline) from India and other countries in Southeast Asia. Paro is bordered by Haa dzongkhag to the west, Tibet to the north, Thimphu to the east, and Chukha dzongkhag to the south.

Paro was featured on the NBC Today Show segment Where In The World Is Matt Lauer? on 2 May 2007.

Dungtse Lhakhang

Paro International Airport

Bhutan; Paro Taktsang Monastery

Paro Taktsang Monastery.

Taktsang is one of the holiest places in Bhutan the monastery is perched on a high granite cliff overlooking the northern Paro valley. This place is especially venerated because of its association with Guru Rinpoche, who is said to have flown to Paro Taktsang in the form of Dorji Drolo, mounted on a flaming dakini-tigress in the 747A.D.

Guru visited Bhutan for 3 times. His first visit to Bhutan 746 A.D from India was when he was invited to Bumthang to treat the Sindhu Raja, the ruler of Bumthang, who was seriously ill. The king was cured and was converted to Buddhism. He promised to return to Bhutan again to further propagate the Buddhist teachings.

A year later, Guru was invited to Tibet by King Thrisong Deutsen to assist him in the construction of the Samye Monastery. He traveled to Tibet, by tantric powers, he cleared away the demonic forces that were disturbing the construction of the monastery, and so the monastery was successfully completed.

During this visit in 747 A.D to Tibet, Guru Rinpoche decided to visit Bhutan again with his Tibetan consort Khandro Y eshi Tshogyel and Denma Tsemang. He travelled all over the country and blessed the people.
While in Singye Dzong inKurtoe, Guru is believed to have flown to Paro Taktsang in the form of Guru Dorji Drolo, the 8th and the final aspect that he assumed, mounting on a dakini-tigress. Before his arrival, the whole country was believed to have been inhabited by hostile evil spirits. On his arrival, he subdued eight categories of evil spirits and bounded them by solemn oath to be the protectors of teaching for all times to come.
He also concealed various forms of Dharma treasures including 3 teachings of Yoga to be discovered later by his disciples called Tertons (Treasure Discoverers). According to his biography ‘Yidkyi Munsel’, he meditated there for 4 months and blessed this place as the best among the sacred places (Ney).

Guru Rinpoche or Padmasambavha

He revealed the real form of Phurpai Kyilkhor (Vajrakiliya) and instructed upon Langchen Pelgyi Singye, one of his principle disciples (Gyalbang Nyernga) and his spiritual condort Khando Yeshi Tshogyel. The cave where Guru Rinpoche and many other renowned saints meditated is called “Drubkhang” (meditation room) or the “pelphug” (holy cave)
In Tibet at Chimphu, Guru gave initiations of the Kagyed text to his faithful disciples. His heart-disciple Langchen Pelgyi Singye who became renowned especially in the craft of subduing evil spirits was instructed to return to Paro Taktsang. Langchen Pelgyi Singye came to Taktsang in 853 A.D, and meditated in the Drubkhang for a long time. The place came to be known as Taktsang Pelphug after him. Then he went to Nepal and before dying, entrusted his body to the protector Damchen Dorji Legpa as his spiritual assistant. His body was brought back to Taktsang by Damchen Dorji Legpa and was hidden in the manner of a treasure (Terma) to be discovered later. His body is now enshrined in the deep rocks under the site of his Kudung chorten, which had been built years ago and was restored in 1982-1983.

According to the Neyig of Taktsang, compiled by Lopen Pemala, there are 9 holy caves (Phug) around the Taktsang, namely

1. Machiphug
2. Singyephug
3. Pelphug
4. Drolophug
5. Yoeselphug
6. Gadigphug
7. Choegyelphug
8. Kapaliphug
9. Phagmoiphug

Machigphug is the cave where Machig Lhabdron, incarnation of Khandro Yeshi Tshogyel, had meditated and is located above the ravine, before approaching the main Taktsang Goenpa. Singyephug can be seen nearby the small stream falling from the cliff. The stream is called Shelkarchu as it is believed that the string of glass beads were scattered around that area by Khandro Yeshi Tshogyel. The cave where Langchen Pelgyi Singye had meditated is called Pelphug seen in the main Taktsang monastery. Rest of the holy caves are said to be located somewhere behind the temple of Singye Samdrup, the protector deity of Taktsang.

Taktsang was under the charge of the Kathogpa lama since 14th century. Kathogpa lam Yeshi Bum (1245-1311), lived in the 15th century visited Taktsang where he intended to build a temple. His wish remained unfulfilled until 1508 when his nephew and disciple, Sonam Gyaltshen built the temple of Ugyen Tsemo above Taktsang.

In 1646, Zhabdrung invited Lopon Rigzin Nyingpo, the descedent of Terton Sangye Lingpa (1340-1396) from Kongpo in Tibet. Zhabdrung visited Taktsang in the company of Lopon Rigzin Nyingpo and took over the charge of Taktsang including Ugyen Tsemo from Kathogpa Lama.he appointed Jinpa Gyalthsen, brother of Desi Tenzin Rabgye, as Lama of Taktsang. Zhabdrung and Lopon Rigzin Nyingpo performed the prayer of Phurpai Kyikhor, which had been performed since then.

It is said that even though Zhabdrung had a wish to build a temple at the site where the Taktsang now stands, he could not as the construction of Paro Rinpung Dzong was underway. So he instructed Tenzin Rabgye, who was a minor at that time to build a temple. In 1692, on the command of Desi Tenzin Rabgye, the Paro Penlop Dragpa Gyaltshen built the main 2-stored temple around the Drubkhang in Taktsang and thus fulfilled Zhabdrung’s wish. It was from this time at Taktsang that system of performing annual prayer dedicated to Guru Rinpoche was introduced, which is even to this day conducted by the Tshenyid Division of the Central monastic Body.

Through numerous renovations and expansions over the following centuries, Taktsang grew into an intricate complex; some of its individual buildings are connected only by steep ladder ways. Between 1961 and 1965, the 34th Je Khenpo Sherdrup Yoezer renovated it. The latest additions were made between 1981 and 1982.

Different temples in Taktsang

• On the left of the entrance stair is the building which contains the Kudung ‘stupa’ of Langchen Pelgyi Singye whose body has been placed deep in the rocks under the site of the Kudung Chorten.

• On the inner left corner is the Dorlo Lhakhang, the temple dedicated to Guru Dorji Dorlo, which had been installed by Late Lama Sonam Zangpo. In the main building, there are three temples.

• The lower temple contains the cave where Guru Rinpoche and Pelgyi Singye meditated and contains a statue of Guru Dorji Drolo and statues of Phurpai Kyilkhor, which was said to have been erected by Niwari artisan Pentsa Dewa during the reign of Desi Tenzin Rabgye and of celestial palace of Guru Rinpoche (Zangtopelri).

• The middle temple “Guru Sungjoen Temple", temple of Guru who speaks because it is believed that when it is being transported to Taktsang, the statue of Guru spoke (sung)by itself. The most skilled artisans from Nepal, Pentsa Dewa, Dharma and Dharmashri erected the statue of Guru Sungjoen. This temple contains among other beautiful paintings of the eight manifestation of Guru, the cycle of Lama Gongdue and Tshepamed, the god of longevity.

• The upper temple “The Temple of the eight manifestations of Guru Rinpoche" was built under the auspices of Myangmed Chungpo from Paro and contains other intresting mural paintings. One of them depicts vividly how Zhabdung Ngawang Namgyel vanquished his Tibetan enemies.

• Another building includes a temple dedicated to Singye Samdrup, the protector deity of Taktsang, Tshepamed, the god of longevity and Namthoesey (Vaosravana or Kubera), and god of wealth.
It is believed that more merit is gained if we meditate one minute in Taktsang than to meditate months together in other sacred places. Its sacred essence is that of Drubkhang/Pelphug, the holy cave in which Guru Rinpoche and many other renowned saints meditated, and also the body of Langchen Pelgyi Singye had been placed deep in the rocks under the site of Kudung Chorten. The Drubkhang is opened once a year during an annual ceremony, which is performed by the monk body for 21 days in the fifth Bhutanese month.

• The literary translation of the Bhutanese word Taktsang; Tak meaning ‘tiger’ and Tshang for ‘nest’, meaning “Tiger’s Nest?.
• Located at 2950m, it is the most famous and sacred hanging cliff monastery in Bhutan.
• Seen from the road while heading towards Drukgyel Dzong (Ruined Fortress).
• Thangthong Gyalpo (1385-1464), the Iron bridge builder, also meditated here and discovered a Terma ‘treasure text’.
• Milarepa (1040-1123) is also said to have meditated in Taktsang.
• A hike to this temple from the riverbed below would normally take about 2-3 hours.
• Ponies can also be arranged till the viewpoint of the temple.

Bhutan Punakha Tshechu DromChe Festival

A highlight of the 15-day annual Punakha drubchen, popularly called as Punakha dromchoe, is the last five days, when gups (local leaders) may be seen wearing monk’s robes.

While laymen adorned in maroon robes is an attraction for local spectators, there is an important symbolism behind the change in their garb. According to the Zhung Dratshang’s tshugla lopen, Samten Dorji, the eight gups of the Wang tshochen-gey (eight great clans of the Wang area, comprising the present-day dzongkhags of Thimphu, Wangdi and Punakha) are the representatives of the Zhabdrung, who fought a fierce war with the Tsang Desi of Tibet in the 17th century.

“The gups were then called dums and in charge of the pazaps (warriors), together with the zimpons or commanders,” said the lopon. He said that, during the Zhabdrung’s time, most of his representatives were monks, as it was a dual system of government in Bhutan then. “So, they wear robes and abide by monastic rules during the last five days,” he said.

The Punakha dromchoe showcases the battle scene and peace pact, wherein Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyel duped the Tibetan force by throwing the replica of the sacred Rangjung Kharsa Paney, the cause of the war, into the river on the last day. Today, battle scenes are re-enacted during the annual dromchoe by gups and pazaps from the eight gewogs. This festival does not have as many mask dances as others, but it is unique for re-enacting the final victory of the Bhutanese over the Tibetan invaders.

Today, during the dromchoe, gups keep control over pazaps and maintain discipline. Pazaps were powerful in ancient times and today are arrogant and try to dominate the public, said a gup. The gups keep an eye on them and scrutinise their every action.

Kabji gup, Tshering Tobjay said that, if the pazaps are not supervised, they tend to quarrel with the public, referring to a case in 2000, when a group of pazaps beat up a man, leaving him with serious injuries.

The monk-gups may not get as much merit as an ordinary monk, but most of them believe that being a monk, even briefly, will remove sins they have committed. Most of them say that being monk is a privileged opportunity to earn merit.

But, for Thimphu chang gup, Kanjur, following the monk path is spiritually nourishing, morally gratifying, and mentally rewarding. He said it could lead to “a good life” in the next generation.

Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyel introduced the pazap festival in 1646 to honour the two deities for their role in protecting the country from Tibetan invasions. Dromchoe is a festival dedicated to Pal-Yeshay Goenpo and Palden Lhamo, the guardian deities of Bhutan and its religion, after Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyel’s victory over Tibetan invaders.

Source: Kuenselonline